At Prince Rupert's Cow Bay Cafe, the front-row view of eagles fishing in the harbour has people leaping to their feet
Written by: Julie Ovenell-CarterThis week’s news that Disney will launch a seven-day family-friendly Alaska cruise from Vancouver in 2011 reminded me that I’ve been wanting to mention something about another lesser-known BC cruise port: Prince Rupert in Northern BC.
When I was in Rupert a year or so ago on my way to Haida Gwaii for the opening of the new Haida Heritage Centre, I was lucky to get a last-minute reservation at the tiny, perfect Cow Bay Cafe just down the road from the cruise ship dock. A friendly local had urged me to call ahead, cautioning that while “the portions are a bit petite, the flavours are amazing. It’s hard to get in.”
There are New York restaurants that would kill to have this little eatery’s 4.5-star rating at TripAdvisor–and its kick-ass waterfront location with fishboat-and-fauna views. On the late July evening I was there, people kept leaping from their tables to watch eagle fishing for salmon in the harbour.
The place is run by Adrienne Johnston, a former nurse who at age 11 announced to her mom that she would one day own a restaurant. As a teenager in India, she met Pierre Elliott Trudeau who told her, “You can do anything in Canada.” She eventually realized her dream in a down-on-its-luck resource-based town with a refreshing dearth of food snobs.
Best not to be fussy about what’s on the menu–it changes daily. But trust me, it’s all good and it’s all fresh.
Says Johnston: “People ask me, ‘So how far up the Skeena River was this salmon caught?’ Well, I can tell them it came from the first tidal basin–because I buy from the test fishery.
“And I can tell them the wheat berries on their plate came from Peace Country, too. I start local and work out from there. But I tell you honestly, I could never do the 100-Mile-Diet thing. I love my tea.”
My friend Murray Atherton just got back from Rupert and e-mailed me–twice!–to say thanks for recommending Cow Bay Cafe. So it’s still there, still great–and definitely worth a visit before the Mouseketeers beat you to it…
Been there? Please share your review here!
Chris Corrigan
on September 14th, 2009Love the Cow Bay Cafe…every time I am Rupert I try to go there…great location and good food, but alas, not my favourite Rupert spot. In downtown, a short cab ride away from the cruise ship dock and maybe a 20 minute walk is Rain, a stellar regional restaurant and tapas bar with great design and a good menu. Rupert has its challenges, but it’s got its surprises too.
Also, there’s a pretty good bookstore, espresso bar and hole in the wall greasy spoon fish and chips place near the park that has little charm but serves fresh and local fish. Blanking on names right now.